| Coz's setup turns off the low beams when the highs are turned on. This is because the setup rewires the lights so that the two are independantly controlled in the original configuration for our cars. They're just two separate lights in the same housing. This is achieved by cutting the wires to the high beam and installing a 9006 high beam male connector, such as is available here, assembled with a pigtail: La-Z-Link This totally removes the control of the high beam from the ballast electronics. The wiring for the ballast (power and ground) is then spliced into a similar 9005 connector, as is available at the above location. This completes the conversion. Takes about 10 minutes max, and costs $26. I'll be doing my own. If you'd rather have it so that you have both on at the same time, simply add a wire running between the two grounds, and the low beam will stay on with the high beam. Which is better? In terms of longevity for the ballast/lights, I'd say keeping the lows on. I'd venture to say that its not safe (or necessary) to drive with both highs and lows on, due to excessive heat and power draw. However, the lows only draw 4.5 amps of current, and the HIDs probably draw less, so you're probably safe for short periods of time. I'll have to decide when i buy mine. The crap with the relay (kyle's writeup) is totally unnecessary, unless you plan on rally driving and driving with the highs and lows on for long periods of time. As my deleted post said yesterday, I was looking into doing a group buy on these, but guapo and sactotodd decided to shoot down that idea. My original thought was to do the pre-wired sets for the cost of the non-pre-wired sets. So much for that.
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Joe
Sport 530bb/Inconel
AIM: hoyatiger81
"You probably never even got you hands dirty working on a car. Take care toolbox!" --djtz1
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